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The Art of Fermentation in North Eastern India


Fermented Green Leaves, Radish Pickles and Saltless Radish Ferment

Fermentation is an ancient technique that has been used traditionally for food- and beverage refinement and preservation. Technically speaking fermentation is the process of converting carbohydrates to acids or alcohol with the help of certain microorganisms under anaerobic conditions. These microorganisms can be yeast, molds or bacteria such as lactic acid bacteria.

  • Broadlef mustard is an important winter vegetable in Sikkim

    Broadlef mustard is an important winter vegetable in Sikkim

  • Gundruk-production at Bamboo Retreat Hotel

    Gundruk-production at Bamboo Retreat Hotel

Besides wine, beer, mold cheese and many renowned food items such as sourdough bread, yoghurt and kefir are a result of fermentation. Kimchi (vegetable-ferments of Korea), soy sauce, sauerkraut, kumis (fermented mare’s milk popular in Central Asia and Mongolia), injera (an Ethiopian sourdough flatbread made from teff flour) and achar (Indo-Aryan word for pickles) are examples of fermented foods. In Northeast India the most popular fermented food items include “Gundruk” (fermented mustard leaf), “Sinki” (fermented radish), “Achar” (pickles) and soyabean-paste.

Fermented vegetables are good for health – a blessing for our gut by promoting good bacteria that support the growth of beneficial microbes in the intestine. This helps our digestive system and stabilizes the balance of the gut flora, thus boosting our immune system.

Gundruk-production at Bamboo Retreat Hotel

«Gundruk» is a very popular fermented food traditionally used to prepare a tasty soup or pickles in Sikkim, Northeast India and Nepal. It is made by fermenting the leaves of mustard, radish or spinach.

At the Bamboo Retreat we use fermentation to preserve produce from the property’s garden, mostly vegetables. The latest vegetable in season are green leafy vegetables such as a local variety of Brassica juncea, broadleaf mustard (Nepali: Rayo Saag). It grows abundantly in our gardens.
Gundruk not only allows us to preserve leafy vegetables but is also a must-try for any visitor. In addition to providing an authentic ethnic culinary experience, it offers numerous health benefits by supporting digestion and gut health.

  • Radish-leaves can also be used to make Gundruk

    Radish-leaves can also be used to make Gundruk

  • Mustard- and radish-leaves ready for processing into Gundruk

    Mustard- and radish-leaves ready for processing into Gundruk

The process of crafting Gundruk

The freshly harvested leaves are washed and chopped into smaller pieces. They are then layed out in the sun and left to slightly wilt for 1 – 2 hours in order to dehydrate them for better and more even fermentation. 

Thereafter check the weight of the juicy leaves and weigh salt: It should be 2 – 3 % of the weight of the leaves. Now sprinkle the salt over the wilted leaves and mix thoroughly to help draw out moisture from the leaves.  Then the salty crushed-leaf-mixture is packed into a closed, transparent, big-mouthed, clean glass-jar.

It’s essential to press the leaves down to remove air pockets and ensure the leaves stay submerged in their own juices. This helps in the fermentation process. The jar is then placed in the sun or a warm place for about 3 – 7 days. The fermentation time can vary based on the climate. 

When the green turns int a light brown and the leaves have developed the desired sourness and tangy flavor, the frementation process is stopped by completely drying the product in the sun. In our experience dried Gundruk can be stored for years. 

Gundruk is traditionally used to cook a delicious soup or stew mixed with soyabeans, onion, tomato and ginger. Another way of preparation is to cook it as a curry, mixed with onions and potatoes, served with steamed rice.

At Bamboo Retreat guests can seasonally enjoy traditional organic Gundruk soup or taste Gundruk pickle: Both are tasty specialities and popular tastes of Sikkim ethnic cuisine.

  • Broadleaf mustard leaves are pounded

    Broadleaf mustard leaves are pounded

  • The fermentation process takes place within large, transparent containers

    The fermentation process takes place within large, transparent containers

  • The fermentation process is completed through drying

    The fermentation process is completed through drying

  • Dried «Gundruk» has a long shelf life

    Dried «Gundruk» has a long shelf life

Gundruk Soup Recipe

  • Crush dried Gundruk
  • Heat a pot and add some oil; ad some fenugreek seeds and chopped green onions and stir till light-brown
  • Ad a pinch of turmeric-powder, a bit of ginger- or garlic paste and salt to taste
  • Ad finely chopped tomatoes and stir for a while
  • Ad crushed Gundruk while stirring to mix it well with tomatoes and spices
  • Ad water and boil until the aroma unfolds
  • Garnish with coriander or spring onions, serve hot.
  • Gundruk-Soup is often prepared with frish ginger, onion and tomato

    Gundruk-Soup is often prepared with frish ginger, onion and tomato

  • Gundruk-Soup and Gundruk-Pickles

    Gundruk-Soup and Gundruk-Pickles

Pickled Radish: “Mula ko Achar”

Radish pickle is another must-have variety of local ferments proudly crafted and appreciated by every home in the region. Radish is also a winter vegetable cultivated at Bamboo Retreat. Radish is eaten raw as salad, cooked as curry or made into pickle.

To prepare radish-pickle, freshly harvested matured radish is washed and cut into the desired shape, then kept to partially dehydrate in the sun for at least 3 days in full sun.
In a second step, mustard oil is mixed with salt, turmeric, chili and ground “panch phoron”, a spice-blend meaning “five spices”. This spice-blend is made up of equal parts of cumin, brown mustard, fenugreek, nigella and fennel. The radish is then mixed with the mentioned ingredients and filled into glass containers. These are kept in the sun to allow the fermentation process to unfold.

When the pickles are deemed ready the containers are moved to cold storage where they can be kept for months.

  • Finely chopped radish is dried

    Finely chopped radish is dried

  • Mula ko Achar ready for consumption

    Mula ko Achar ready for consumption

Sinki: Fermented Saltless Radish

“Sinki” is a type of non-salted fermented edible made primarily from radish-roots. The process of fermentation involves sun-drying crushed radish-roots to partially dehydrate them and then allowing them to ferment for couple of weeks. As the radish ferments, it transforms into a tangy, flavorful and slightly sour delicacy. Once the fermentation process has transformed the radish into a tangy, flavorful and slightly sour delicacy the process is halted by fully drying the product in the sun. Similar to Gundruk, Sinki can then be used for cooking or stored.

Sinki can be thought of as a fermented radish pickle. But its unique saltless preparation and the natural fermentation process set it apart from more conventional pickles. It is commonly prepared in the hilly regions of Nepal and Northeast India. In Sikkim Sinki enjoys great popularity. In regions where radishes grow abundantly, Sinki as well as Gundruk are a way to preserve food for the long winter months when fresh produce is scarce.

Traditionally, Sinki is used to prepare soups and stews and often served along with rice and lentil soup (dal-bhat). Its tangy and sour flavor complements the mild taste of rice and lentil-sauce (dal-bhat) perfectly. Like other fermented foods, Sinki is also often eaten as a pickle, enjoyed with meat dishes or as an accompaniment to a traditional meal.

  • Radish harvest

    Radish harvest

  • Radish is pounded

    Radish is pounded

  • Pounded radish is filled into transparent containers for fermentation

    Pounded radish is filled into transparent containers for fermentation

  • Once the fermentation process is completed, Sinki is dried

    Once the fermentation process is completed, Sinki is dried

Preparing Sinki is a time-intensive hands-on process, typically mutually crafted by families or communities during the winter months when radishes are in abundance.
Food-processing activities, such as preparing ferments together, offer families the opportunity to bond and work collaboratively, fostering stronger connections. Shared tasks promote communication, teamwork, and a sense of unity, not only within the family but also with the wider community. By preserving and passing down cultural food practices, families strengthen their sense of identity and harmony, creating lasting memories and traditions.

By following fermentation techniques for harvest-preservation, the Bamboo Retreat contributes towards the preservation of local knowledge and cuisine while offering our guests the opportunity to taste traditional flavors. As an added benefit, the daily consumption of fermented edibles are powerful probiotics that help boos our immune system.


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Discovering North Sikkim


Kabi Longchok in North Sikkim – an annual shaman ceremony is held here in honor of the medicinal herbs

Description

North Sikkim is the least populated region, where the cultures of the Bhutias and Lepchas are still lived out in a very authentic way. The Bhutias and Lepchas take great pride in their culture, and Buddhist ceremonies play a very important role in their daily lives. On our journey through North Sikkim, we make a stop at Kabi Lungchok. The monoliths placed here by the indigenous people mark the brotherhood pact that the Lepchas made with the Bhutias who migrated from Tibet in the 15th century. This sacred site is still used by the Lepchas for their annual shamanic rituals honoring medicinal herbs.

The journey continues, passing terraced fields and the impressive “Seven Sisters” waterfall. On clear days, we are treated to a magnificent view of the surrounding mountains, including the 7000-meter Jomolhari peak, located on the Bhutan border. Finally, we visit the Labrang and Phodong monasteries as well as the ruins of the first government seat of the Chogyals. At Phodong monastery, you will visit the prayer hall and a small museum dedicated to the explorer Alexandra David Neel. In the monastery’s upper floor, you can also see an intricate depiction known as “Sangro Pelri” – a model symbolizing the different levels of the universe according to Tibetan Buddhist cosmology.

  • The steep mountain slopes of northern Sikkim are also terraced for rice cultivation.

    The steep mountain slopes of northern Sikkim are also terraced for rice cultivation.

  • Kloster Phodong in north Sikkim

    Kloster Phodong in north Sikkim

Program

Duration: 7 – 9 hours (approx. 5 hours driving; short hike approx. 35 minutes)

Included in the price:

  • Entry permit for guests and vehicle
  • Transfer in Toyota Innova or similar with experienced driver
  • Drinking water, snacks, hot tea
  • Lunch at a local restaurant
  • English-speaking local guide
  • Visits as described above

Price on request: Varies depending on the number of participants and season

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Gallery

A little collection of impressions that have been made on this journey.

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    Reisernte im Herbst in Nord-Sikkim

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    Die Architektur von Kloster Labrang ist aussergewöhnlich

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    Ruins of Sikkim’s first Royal Seat in Tumlong, North Sikkim

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Monastery Zurman Kharwang in Lingdum


On the terrace of the Zurman Kharwang monastery.

Description

The Lingdum Zurman Kharwang Monastery is an important spiritual center in the region and plays a significant role in the Buddhist community of Sikkim. It was founded in 1995 by His Holiness, the 12th Zurmang Gharwang Rinpoche, a prominent spiritual leader of the Kagyu school of Tibetan Buddhism. The open-minded monastery also houses an active monk school. It is common to find young monks in the monastery courtyard memorizing the Tibetan alphabet.

Join us as we immerse ourselves in the world of monastic life. Visit the prayer hall and other rooms where various manifestations of protective deities from Tibetan cosmology are represented. Inside the colorful complex, murals depict important events from the life of Buddha. The open-minded monastery also has an active monk school, where young monks can often be found memorizing the Tibetan alphabet or reciting mantras (powerful prayers).

On occasion, you will have the opportunity to witness a prayer ceremony.

  • View from the monastery

    View from the monastery

  • The beautiful monastery

    The beautiful monastery

Program

Duration: 3 – 4 hours (Travel time: approximately 1 hour)

Included in the price:

  • All transfers in a Toyota Innova or similar vehicle
  • Drinking water
  • Lunch at the monastery restaurant
  • English-speaking local guide
  • Monastery tour, both exterior and interior
  • Opportunity to attend a prayer ceremony (if available)

Price on request: Varies depending on the number of participants, season, and qualifications of the travel companion

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Gallery

A little collection of impressions that await you.

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    Mönche bei Abendzeremonie in Rumtek

  • Bamboo Retreat Hotel - image "Monastery Zurman Kharwang in Lingdum" 33

    Gebetsfahnen Kloster Rumtek

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  • Bamboo Retreat Hotel - image "Monastery Zurman Kharwang in Lingdum" 39

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  • Bamboo Retreat Hotel - image "Monastery Zurman Kharwang in Lingdum" 41

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Turmeric – the golden spice


Turmeric root: a golden treasure of the plant world

Turmeric or curcuma is often referred to as the ‘golden spice’ and is a staple-spice in Asian cuisine. This root, scientifically known as Curcuma domestica, belongs to the ginger family (Zingiberaceae) and is known for its numerous health benefits. Curkuma is valued not only for its earthy flavour and bright yellow colour, but also for its anti-inflammatory and immune-boosting properties thanks to the ingredient curcumin.

Frisch geerntete Gelbwurz aus unserem Garten.

Freshly harvested turmeric-rhizomes

Kurkuma Pulver aus dem Garten des Bamboo Retreats im Nanglo aus Bambus

Handmade organic turmeric powder drying in bamboo basket

Turmeric has played a central role in ethnobotany for centuries – both in the kitchen and in traditional medicine. In Ayurvedic medicine in particular, turmeric is used as an indispensable ingredient to treat stomach problems and inflammation. In Hindu culture, too, turmeric is closely associated with religious
rituals and is regarded as sacred.

Enjoy turmeric at the Bamboo Retreat Hotel

At the Bamboo Retreat Hotel in Sikkim, sustainability and harmony with nature take centre stage. Here we grow various medicinal plants and spices in our own organic garden – turmeric is one of our valuable crops. At the hotel, we use turmeric in our cuisine. This closeness to nature and the traditional cultivation of turmeric make the hotel an ideal place for relaxation and detox. At Bamboo Retreat Hotel even one of our guestrooms is dedicated to the golden spice.

Frisch geerntete Gelbwurz aus unserem Garten.

This guestroom is dedicated to the golden spice

Helen präsentiert Zutaten

Helen presents ingredients to preserve «Chichire-Korila» (Cyclantheria pedata) with black salt and turmeric. The tray is woven of banboo, called «Nanglo» in Sikkim.

Helen präsentiert Zutaten

Turmeric in bloom at Bamboo Retreat Organic Garden

Travelling to the Bamboo Retreat not only offers the opportunity to experience the breathtaking Himalayas, but also the richness of the region’s ethnobotanical traditions. Helen Kämpf, co-founder of the hotel and the travel platform sikkim.ch, shares her knowledge of local medicinal plants and their
uses.

Black Turmeric

Black turmeric (Curcuma caesia) is the lesser-known counterpart to the widely used yellow turmeric (Curcuma longa). While yellow turmeric is prized for the bright yellow color of ist rhizomes and its earthy flavor, black turmeric has a deep, purplish-blue hue and a more pungent, camphor-like aroma. Unlike yellow turmeric, which is celebrated for its culinary uses and anti-inflammatory properties, black turmeric is predominantly used in traditional medicine, particularly in Ayurvedic and folk remedies. It is believed to have potent healing properties, especially in treating respiratory issues, pain relief, and improving digestion. Black turmeric can be used fresh, dried as powder as a tincture or Oxymel.

  • Freshly cut black turmeric, Curcuma caesia

    Freshly cut black turmeric, Curcuma caesia

  • Powder made of dried black-turmeric root can be used to boost the immune system.

    Powder made of dried black-turmeric root can be used to boost the immune system.

  • Longmit shows harvest of black turmeric (kalo haldi) at Bamboo Retreat Hotel

    Longmit shows harvest of black turmeric (kalo haldi) at Bamboo Retreat Hotel

A special recipe that Helen reveals is the ‘Golden Oxymel’ – a soothing mixture of honey, apple cider vinegar, lemon, ginger and turmeric. This tried-and-tested recipe is not only healthy, but also incredibly tasty.

Recipe: Golden Oxymel

  • 150g liquid honey
  • 50g apple cider vinegar
  • 1/8 organic lemon
  • 2cm organic ginger
  • A small piece of organic turmeric root or 1/2 tsp turmeric powder

Bamboo Retreat Hotel - image "Turmeric – the golden spice" 51

Oxymel with turmeric serves as an immune system booster

Preparation: Mix all ingredients well and store in a glass container. The Oxymel can be taken pure, dissolved in warm water or added to salad or soups. Take 1 – 2 Teaspoons a day – perfect for a daily immune boost.

Travelling to Sikkim – discover the world of spices

A visit to the Bamboo Retreat Hotel with us in Sikkim is more than just an ordinary tour. It is a journey of discovery into the world of ethnobotanical medicinal plants and their many uses. The combination of tradition and modernity can be experienced here while you enjoy the beauty of the Himalayan region. Discover the secrets of turmeric and other medicinal plants on our tour « Rural Sikkim»

Our round trip through Sikkim emphasises the breathtaking nature, the cultural highlights and the life of the locals to provide you with true insights on the land and its people. Stay overnight with a local family and immerse yourself in villages and family life. And enjoy fine locally owned hotels and lodges that reflect Sikkim’s culture and history. On your trip, you will of course also visit the most beautiful
monasteries and temples that this culturally rich region has to offer. Enjoy amazing landscapes and the world’s third highest mounten, Mt. Khanchenjunga. Discover our travel packages or book a customised trip to suit your taste via sikkim.ch

Bamboo Retreat Hotel - image "Turmeric – the golden spice" 53

Discover the beautiful plants and landscapes in Sikkim.


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Rice Fields of Martam & Temi Tea Garden


Short

On this day trip, discover the extensive, terraced rice fields of Martam with us and visit Sikkim’s largest tea garden Temi. Meet the tea pickers and learn about the “green gold” in the oldest tea processing plant of Sikkim. Tea-tasting too may be arranged.

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  • Bamboo Retreat Hotel - image "Rice Fields of Martam & Temi Tea Garden" 61

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Teas of India


Program

Embark on a sensory journey through the diverse world of North Indian teas with our Tea Tasting Experience. Step into a tranquil space where the aromatic notes of chai and regional blends unfold, creating a serene atmosphere for discovery.

Led by our expert tea sommeliers, this interactive event allows you to sample an exquisite selection of premium North Indian teas. From strong Assam to delicate Darjeeling, each cup tells a unique story about the region’s tea art.

Extend your tea journey with an insight into the cultural traditions surrounding tea in North India. Immerse yourself in the art of tea preparation and enjoy the ritual aspects of this popular beverage.

Duration: 1.5 hours

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  • Bamboo Retreat Hotel - image "Teas of India" 63

    Kräuterbad

  • Bamboo Retreat Hotel - image "Teas of India" 65

    Kräuterbad


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The Art of Thangka


Program

An artist trained in mandala painting will explain to you his career, how mandala thangkas come about and answer your questions about the meaning of the rich symbolism from the Tibetan Buddhist cultural area. Also learn which minerals are used to make the colors and/or paint your own mandala.

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    Kräuterbad

  • Bamboo Retreat Hotel - image "The Art of Thangka" 69

    Kräuterbad


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Bamboo Weaving


Program

Weaving with bamboo has a long tradition in Sikkim. Even today “dokos” – bamboo baskets that are carried with a ribbon over the forehead – still serve as a “cart” for the rural population to collect food or distribute cow dung in the fields. “Nanglos” on the other hand, are flat trays that serve well for drying herbs or for cleaning cereals, legumes or seeds. Together with a basket maker, weave a basket out of bamboo. You will need strong hands and patience.

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    Kräuterbad

  • Bamboo Retreat Hotel - image "Bamboo Weaving" 73

    Kräuterbad


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Ethnic cooking course


Program

Embark on a flavorful journey through Sikkim with our Ethnic Cooking Class. In our well-equipped kitchen, learn the art of preparing iconic dishes like aromatic curries and tandoori delicacies with experienced chefs. Explore the rich diversity of North Indian cuisine with hands-on experience, learning spice blends, marinating techniques and balancing flavors.

Our culinary adventure is designed to be both educational and interactive, offering an insight into authentic North Indian cuisine. Immerse yourself in a warm and inviting environment reminiscent of a traditional North Indian kitchen and enjoy the pleasure of creating a feast with your own hands.

Duration: 2 hours

Join us for a shorter but equally intense experience celebrating the vibrant flavors and cultural heritage of North Indian cuisine.

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  • Bamboo Retreat Hotel - image "Ethnic cooking course" 75

    Kräuterbad

  • Bamboo Retreat Hotel - image "Ethnic cooking course" 77

    Kräuterbad


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